Štítek: <span>P-51D Mustang</span>



Natural Metal Finish (NMF)

  1. Surfacer Gunze Black 1500
  2. Gloss Black: Gunze C2 + Levelling thinner, ratio 7:10
  3. Base metal: MRP-003 + Mr.Hobby SM205 (Titan) + Levelling thinner, ratio (3:1:1)
  4. Light panels: MRP-146 (Dark Alum.) + MRP-008 (Duraluminium) , ratio 2:1
  5. Darker panels: MRP-146 + MRP-008, ratio 1:1
  6. Panel around the exhausts: MRP-030 Steel
  7. Leading edges of the tail surfaces: SM205 Titan
  8. Wings: MRP-128 (similar to Gunze C8)
  9. Patina 1st level: more diluted MRP-008 speayed around panel lines and irregularly inside some panels
  10. Patina 2nd level: Gunze C101 Smoke Gray-Gloss around the most dirty and exposed areas like wing roots etc.

Olive Drab anti-glare panel: AK RC025 (Dark OD) + RC023 (OD) + RC019 (DeckTan), ratio 3:2:1

Red: AK RC005 (Signal Red) + RC006 (Red), ratio 2:1, sprayed over pink base coat (pink is better option then the white base for the red paint because it does not leave white edges around masking tape)

Note: bubble canopy here is the spare part used only for the masking purpose

Scale Models



This kit was not an easy build. There is a lot of curves and many parts, though very precisely moulded, need often a little of sanding and rivets repairing along the joints. Some little filling is necessary from time to time.

  1. Three covers in the bottom nose section had to be filled and one more engraved for D-10 version.
  2. New cover on the belly scope was added from aluminum sheet.
  3. Guns sections in the kit do not fit precisely into the wings. Problem stems mainly from it’s profile that is more narrow than the profile of the wing, so some tedious filling, sanding and lines engraving was necessary.

TIP: before gluing the wings halves I masked ejection holes of the machine guns so that it won’t be filled with metal paint later. The masking will be removed after the painting process is finished.

4. The ventilation covers on the both sides of the engine cowling (without perforation for this machine) are larger than the moulded holes in the fuselage halves, so some trimming was necessary before gluing it.
5. 0,5 mm strip of the white plastic was added to fill the gap between windscreen and canopy rails.

6. Mounting plates for the antennas of the tail warning radar were scratchbuilt from the aluminium foil and riveted with needle.
7. New clear ID light on the upper fuselage joint was made from hot clear plastic rod pushed through the hole in the metal sheet (hole shape was tear like).

8. Coloured ID lights on the bottom side of the right wing were painted with TAMIYA Clear enamel paints and masked with 1.6 mm diameter circles cut from masking tape (I used Punch and Die set to do it quickly and precisely)

9. 108 gal paper drop tanks from EDUARD’s Brassin set were equipped with fuel and bleeding lines made from copper wires.

Scale Models



I decided to make my own 3D design of Landing Light, because the one in the kit was badly moulded and its details were blurred. The new part is much more crisp and better detailed.

FREE DOWNLOAD HERE

The light was sprayed with MRP Surfacer and painted with MRP GLOSS BLACK and 003 Super Silver. “Glass” was made from Nail Top Coat UV Gel applied inside the cone and consequently hardened with UV light. This gel is unbelievably clear and if applied carefully you can even form lens shape on the top!

CAUTION: source of UV light usually produce some heat so I recommend to cure the gel in a few 10 seconds intervals.

Note: the wooden roller in the bottom part of the reflector was used for automatic retraction of the landing light by moving landing gear struts.

Scale Models - 3D Printed tools